Conversations with Wanyan Wu

Today we’d like to introduce you to Wanyan Wu.

Hi Wanyan, can you start by introducing yourself? We’d love to learn more about how you got to where you are today?
I changed my major from Gemstone and Material Technology to Jewellery and Related Products. This was a significant shift, from identifying and analyzing gemstones in a laboratory setting to designing jewellery as a form of artistic expression.

The reason for this change began when I saw a senior, just one year ahead of me, pursue Fashion Accessories at the London College of Fashion. That moment inspired me to reflect on my own interests, and I realized I was more passionate about art and design than scientific research.

I was thrilled when Birmingham City University accepted me into their MA Graduated Diploma jewellery design program. That opportunity marked the beginning of my journey into the creative world of jewellery design, and I’ve been committed to developing my skills ever since.

Would you say it’s been a smooth road, and if not what are some of the biggest challenges you’ve faced along the way?
Pursuing jewellery design in the United Kingdom has presented significant challenges, particularly due to my limited foundation in art disciplines such as drawing, visual design, and traditional goldsmithing. Adapting to a new cultural and academic environment, along with navigating language barriers and differing modes of thinking, further intensified the difficulty of this transition.

During the early stages of the program, I often found my outcomes lacking in refinement and coherence. It was disheartening to compare my work with that of my peers, who demonstrated strong technical skills and the ability to communicate their ideas clearly through jewellery as a creative medium.

However, with the guidance and support of my tutor, Bridie, I gradually began to develop both confidence and technical competence. More importantly, she helped me recognize my potential and encouraged me to explore areas that aligned with my strengths and interests. Through this process, I discovered a deep fascination with enamelling , which has since become a central focus of my creative development.

Appreciate you sharing that. What else should we know about what you do?
The jewellery project I am currently working on is a continuation of my MA graduation collection, themed around “Candy Boxes”. The initial inspiration came from the pain of a wisdom tooth, which unexpectedly triggered childhood memories of toothaches caused by eating too many sweets. For me, candy holds a complex emotional weight – it is both the pain of cavities and the joy of receiving sweets during Chinese New Year or sharing them with friends.

In my current work, I have chosen to eliminate the unpleasant aspects of those memories, focusing instead on conveying the pure joy that candy evokes. I want my audience to connect with the happiness embedded in their own candy-related memories.

I selected familiar candy types such as Haribo gummy bears, ring pops, and Chinese brands like Wangzai QQ candy and watermelon-flavored sweets. The concept is centered around “Pick ‘N’ Mix”, emphasizing customization and playful interaction. Audiences can mix and match different candy box shapes, candy types, and wearing styles, such as beaded structures or gemstone-style settings, to create their own unique piece of candy jewellery. I use claw settings to mount each ‘candy’ into an openable container, representing the act of unlocking a memory.

In terms of materials and techniques, I first model the candy forms using Nomad and Rhino, and then produce them using 3D printing in both resin and wax. The hollow resin candies, after polishing, dyeing, and coating with lacquer, become translucent beads with a glass-like quality that I find especially satisfying. The wax-printed pieces are cast in silver, then coated with multiple layers of enamel to achieve a glossy, candy-like finish. Applying red-toned enamel to curved silver surfaces was particularly challenging, involving issues like cracking, blistering, and discoloration. Through continuous testing and adjustments, I was able to resolve these problems and refine the final appearance.

Due to my sensitivity to resin and the desire to further enhance the visual quality of the pieces, I plan to explore lampworking glass techniques in future iterations. This will allow me to create hollow glass candies as a safer and more vibrant alternative to resin.

If you had to, what characteristic of yours would you give the most credit to?
I believe that my passion and persistence in jewellery design, along with the continuous support from my family, have allowed me to remain committed to this field. What draws me most to jewellery is its unique nature as a medium: unlike other forms of artistic expression, it is wearable, decorative, and deeply personal.

Contemporary jewellery evolves with time, gradually bearing traces of use. It not only reflects the wearer’s personality and identity but also serves as a means of communication, conveying thoughts and emotions in subtle yet powerful ways.

In the coming years, I intend to continue developing as a jewellery artist, learning, refining my craft, and creating work that speaks to both aesthetic and conceptual dimensions.

Contact Info:

• Website: https://www.wanyanwujewellery.com
• Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/wanyan_wu_jewellery/

Image Credits
Pictures by Wanyan Wu & Oliver Kinsella