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Meet Johnny Lee of Pearl River Deli in Chinatown

Today we’d like to introduce you to Johnny Lee.

So, before we jump into specific questions about the business, why don’t you give us some details about you and your story.
After the financial crash of 2008, being recently graduated from college my job search was quite fruitless so I took up a job in the middle of nowhere in Colorado to help a family friend. I ended up liking the restaurant life and decided to pursue it further upon returning to Los Angeles in 2010 which is when the food truck trend took off. Since then, I’ve worked in fine dining, fast casuals, food halls, consultancies and had a diverse range of experiences thanks to the amazing city of Los Angeles. I consider myself lucky to have spent my formative cooking years here while the city went from underrated to being a national culinary icon. Some of my highlights of my career have been helping revitalize Grand Central Market as part of Sticky Rice and Eggslut, opening Sidechick and garnering an LA Times review by the former Jonathan Gold, and to this day I have finally been able to start my own business cooking the foods of my heritage and culture at Pearl River Deli.

Overall, has it been relatively smooth? If not, what were some of the struggles along the way?
It has not been a smooth road, when I started in this industry most people made $10/hr which was barely above minimum wage a decade ago. At the time, toxic masculinity and workplace abuse was not unheard of and generally accepted as part of the job. I have been lucky to witness the decline of these trends but it doesn’t mean it has gone extinct, unfortunately I still witness it in other restaurants but I am trying to do my part in order to not repeat the vicious cycle. Over the last decade, we have witnessed the restaurant business boom but the financial realities have not gotten much better, while their restaurants that have achieved a viral success, it is the exception and not rule. We still struggle with thin profit margins which makes it difficult to pay a living wage at times. The food I cook which is Chinese food has struggled to justify charging a higher price point for many years due to the notion that our “ethnic” food was an affordable or cheap cuisine. While it has gotten better there is still more work and awareness that needs to be done.

Alright – so let’s talk business. Tell us about Pearl River Deli – what should we know?
Pearl River Deli is a small, casual restaurant that focuses on selling Cantonese comfort classics both hot and prepared cold items. We are known for our char siu bbq pork and our Macau inspired pork chop sandwich on a pineapple bun. The thing I have been most proud of is my staff whom have continued to work during the pandemic at risk but still creating delicious food and providing genuine hospitality the best way we can during these pandemic times. I think what sets us apart is that we don’t compromise on what we want to do, we don’t always take the easy way to sell food that we think the customers will easily buy, we want to expand our potential clientele’s idea of what Cantonese and Chinese food can be even if it means we don’t always take the most profitable path, that said it is challenging because the reality is we are a business and we need to cover our costs but finding the right balance between pushing the boundaries and anticipating what customers want has been exciting for us.

Any shoutouts? Who else deserves credit in this story – who has played a meaningful role?
Working for people like Alvin Cailan has been a key turning point in my career. Since I never went to culinary school, there was a certain structure I lacked but even if I had went there were many key lessons of how to run a restaurant and how to do business that school would have never taught me. It wasn’t that chef Alvin showed me how to be a better cook but observing him over the years showed me how to think and I believe that is something taken for granted. You can always gain more knowledge but its not always easy or obvious on how to improve your thought process when it comes to planning, opening, or running a restaurant.

Pricing:

  • Macau Pork Chop Bun $10
  • Tofu Pudding $5
  • Char Siu BBQ Pork $9 per 1/2 lb

Contact Info:


Image Credit:

Nadine Sachiko Hsu

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