Today we’d like to introduce you to Alfonso Martínez. They and their team shared their story with us below:
Although Poncho’s Tlayudas was ‘officially’ born in 2016, the story goes way back to Oaxaca, where Zapotec chef Alfonso Martínez grew up watching his mother cook with wood and charcoal in a smokey kitchen. When Martínez, also a musician, migrated to Los Angeles, he brought with him the music, the recipes, and the ‘sazon’ from home. Since then, Poncho’s cooking has traveled around Los Angeles, catering from Smorgasburg to Little Tokyo or Malibu, at the Metro Goldwyn Mayer, or Garcetti’s (former Los Angeles mayor) campaign, family gatherings, parties, and community events.
This is why Martínez considers himself an heir of the ‘Lugui’a”, the Zapotec expression for the mobile markets t that for centuries have been part of the food and ingredient trading in indigenous cultures.
There is only one fixed meeting point for Poncho’s Tlayudas: South Central, Los Angeles, where Poncho turns on the charcoal and the heat to cook every Friday evening and gathers family, friends, community members, and newcomers to try Poncho’s Tlayudas: a traditional Oaxacan dish made with a large tortilla folded and filled with asiento (lard), refried beans, cabbage, and a protein—such as chorizo or thin meat called Tasajo—.
Poncho’s Tlayudas is known for their blood sausage, a recipe he learned from his mother-in-law, keeping the tradition alive while embracing the idea that food is a universal language.
We all face challenges, but looking back would you describe it as a relatively smooth road?
It hasn’t been a smooth road. Although I am very fortunate to be an ambassador of Zapotec indigenous cuisine, I have learned that racism is a significant obstacle that indigenous chefs face. People enjoy our food, stories, textiles, and mezcales, but they do not appreciate the indigenous presence or give us recognition. Many indigenous people involved in the food industry have been kept behind the scenes.
I don’t believe that people try to bargain prices with white cooks for catering events. They usually pay the price without hesitation. However, I have been asked to lower my prices more than once, even when people don’t realize the time and effort that goes into making the food.
Cooking is not just a career or a means of livelihood. For me, it’s a way to stay connected with my roots and my community back home.
Thanks for sharing that. So, maybe next you can tell us a bit more about your work?
Poncho’s Tlayudas is known for its morcilla, a recipe I learned from my in-laws. People from all over the city come to try it.
Not many people know this, but I’m also a musician. I learned to play the clarinet by playing sones and jarabes in my local band in my hometown of Albarradas.
Poncho’s Tlayudas is all about keeping our traditions alive; we do it through recipes and flavors and also through music.
Before we let you go, we’ve got to ask if you have any advice for those who are just starting out?
I believe that young cooks and upcoming generations have access to everything they need. It took me a while to learn how to navigate the digital and social media ecosystem, but it’s essential to understand and use those tools to thrive in the current scene.
Contact Info:
- Website: ponchostlayudas.com
- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ponchostlayudas/
- Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/ponchos-tlayudas-los-angeles-3
Image Credits
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zculd8g1kqbumta/AACVKBhk71eCfbnOGAC15g0ma?dl=0
