Conversations with Amanda Zo Cobb

Today we’d like to introduce you to Amanda Zo Cobb.

Hi Amanda, so excited to have you with us today. What can you tell us about your story? 
I currently design and manufacture full-time for my independent clothing line, Chain Driven Apparel, but I have been shooting for these stars for a very long time. My mom taught me to sew when I was a kid, and I really caught on, especially in high school. We were a single-parent household and generally on a budget, so we often shopped at thrift stores for our clothing. In order to have more options, I started thrifting garments I liked in all sorts of sizes, knowing that I could make them fit later behind a sewing machine. I also started altering clothing for friends and family. After high school, I got a full-time job sewing at an alterations shop. The shop boasted ‘same day’ services, so I learned to budget my time and prioritize workflow. A few years later, I started a similar business of my own but with the addition of custom clothing options called Under Current Clothing. I rented a small annex space in a vintage store and offered the basic alterations and repairs, but I also designed custom shirts, pants, vests, jackets, men’s suits, wedding dresses, corsets, dog clothing, etc., for my customers. I learned so much by patterning clothing from measurements for a variety of bodies, and I even kept a rolledex with my clients’ measurements. I had a loyal local following but eventually was ready to elevate the business to the next level. I then started Seattle Sewing Contractors, this time with a business partner. Our focus was Made in USA manufacturing for independent labels. We invested in various pieces of specialized equipment and a space large enough to operate. I learned how to stack cut fabric and assemble garments in the quickest, most efficient ways. Years later, when we dissolved this business, I moved to New Orleans, LA, with my equipment and began working with a woman-owned/operated factory. I managed production and also did pattermaking for independent designers and their capsule collections. I always had a full work schedule but would dedicate time in the early mornings to develop what is now Chain Driven Apparel. When COVID hit I started working remotely from my home and truly launched the label. 

Alright, so let’s dig a little deeper into the story – has it been an easy path overall and if not, what were the challenges you’ve had to overcome?
When I was younger, I had doubts about making sewing my full-time ‘job’ and losing my passion for it. But they say do what you love, and you will never work a day of your life, so I went for it. As it turns out, I’ve worked every day of my life (haha). When I was working at the alteration shop, I worked full time with 12-hour shifts and earning only $10/hr. With Under Current Clothing, whenever I accepted a new custom project, I took the time to truly research it and pattern / sew it correctly but would charge only what I thought was fair. This often meant I was only charging for a fraction of the time I dedicated to complete a project. I would estimate I spent between 50-60 hrs. per week working in my shop. With Seattle Sewing Contractors we had to compete with overseas manufacturing and still win enough contracts to cover our overhead, which meant oftentimes we had to negotiate for lower costs than we anticipated. At a certain point we were so financially strapped that I was only paying myself enough to barely cover rent but working at least 80 hrs. per week. Throughout that entire timeline, I dedicated a lot of time to learning, and I had to live on a very tight budget to make ends meet. But looking back on all of this, I would do it all over again because the knowledge and skills extracted from each one of these businesses is invaluable to me now. I didn’t go to school for my craft, instead I used every opportunity and a fully committed mindset to grow my skills and build my current business. 

Appreciate you sharing that. What else should we know about what you do?
Someone here in Joshua Tree recently described my work as ‘hot rod Nudie’, which I absolutely loved. For those who are not familiar, Nudie Cohn designed highly decorated suits for rock stars and other celebrities in the 70s, and his style became an iconic fashion genre. My clothing has a workwear foundation with a rock and roll flair. I use heavier-weight denim for a majority of my products, including high-waisted pants, shorts, cropped jackets, and jumpsuits, which are then adorned with velvet appliqué designs that are both desert-centric and tough yet feminine. I also make products from leather, such as halter tops, fringe vests, and motorcycle seats, but I’m most proud of a leather Concho jumpsuit I made for Jenny Lewis, which she prominently wore throughout her 2023 Joy’All tour. The most popular purchase on Chain Driven’s site is from the custom suits section. I’ve had the honor of making highly decorated suits for musicians, biker babes, brides-to-be, and general fans of the brand. I’m really trying to start a trend of matching your motorcycle. I made the current seat on my 1974 Harley-Davidson, and it has a black base with white snakes, daggers and chains, red scorpions, and pink flames. I then made a suit to match. And the trend doesn’t necessarily stop there; I’ve painted and decorated my house here in the desert in a consistent aesthetic to my brand – which also happens to be the location where I design/manufacture for my business these days. I think what sets my brand apart is that I exist pretty authentically in the aesthetic I create and truly put my pieces to the test for durability. I love the rugged desert landscape, being immersed in a heavy music scene, and wrenching and riding motorcycles. 

Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?
Unmentioned until now is the sizing that I offer. I try to be as inclusive as possible, but I do make all my patterns by hand and also cut and sew everything with the help of a couple employees. I currently offer my styles Made to Order in 13 sizes and can accommodate up to a 44-inch waist. I want my customers to feel dressed to kill but entirely capable and comfortable. I make everything true to size, so I always recommend that new customers take accurate measurements before ordering, and I’m generally always on standby to answer any questions personally. 

Pricing:

• Shorts / Pants $125-$220
• Tops $60-$125
• Jackets $175-$275
• Custom Suits $725-$875

Contact Info:

• Website: https://chaindrivenapparel.com/
• Instagram: @chain_driven_apparel
• Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/chaindrivenapparel

Image Credits
Sara Bernson
Sarah Shelton
Nightengale Photography
Iris Marlowe
Lisa G
Bettie Butcher
Frostine Shake
Raz Azraii
Joey Kage
Errol Colandro
Carrie Keagan
Sasha Frank