Today we’d like to introduce you to Deborah Pak. They and their team shared their story with us below:
Jennifer Pak never planned to own a restaurant when she emigrated to the U.S. in the late ’70s. She grew up in the Jeolla Province of Korea, which is known for having delicious food. From modest beginnings, Soban’s authentic Korean cuisine and Jennifer’s dedication to quality made it a local gem, beloved by the esteemed food critic Jonathan Gold.
The restaurant’s breakthrough came when it hosted the after-party for the movie “Parasite,” gaining global attention.
Jennifer now focuses on a small farm, supplying ingredients for the restaurant, while her daughter, Deborah, leads Soban into a new chapter, preserving its authenticity and family spirit.
Alright, so let’s dig a little deeper into the story – has it been an easy path overall and if not, what were the challenges you’ve had to overcome?A restaurant is a living organism that is constantly changing – I think what we learned from the past few years is that nothing is predictable or promised. We just have to remember to support the people and the businesses you like.
Covid was almost the end for the restaurant – but the press from the Parasite after-party really saved the business. With the restrictions for indoor dining and limited take-out orders prior, we were struggling to make ends meet.
Now, I am trying my best to update the restaurant while keeping it authentic.
Working with my parents was (and still is) hard, but it has strengthened my relationship with them, and I really do cherish the times I work with my mom.
Thanks – so what else should our readers know about your work and what you’re currently focused on?
We are really proud of making Korean food the truly traditional way. Our braised short rib dish takes us two days to make and even grow & sun dry the jujubes that go into the dish on my mom’s little farm. We take an extra step to chill the stock to skim off all the fat so that our beef stock is as clean and delicious as possible, or more 깔끔해. “깔끔한” food translates to “clean tasting food,” but it basically means the flavors are not muddled and generally simple but with lots of flavor.
We have been making traditional Korean ferments, called 청 Cheong, for over 12 years and have been incorporating them as much as possible in our banchan and marinades for our dishes.
I think we’re starting to fine-tune everything so we can really focus on consistency and trying to make every meal at Soban a pleasant memory. Working more closely with the people who grow our produce has been a fun journey and has helped us be more in tune with the food. My mom loves to wear her huge sun-hat and elbow-length gloves and harvest vegetables with her friends. (See picture for reference)
What do you like best about our city? What do you like least?
The best thing about LA : is having access to some of the best produce and ingredients in the world.
The Petersen Museum & The Huntington Library are my favorite places in LA (that isn’t a restaurant or food related.)
What I like least about LA : My favorite restaurants are always closed on my one day off (Soban is closed on Tuesdays.)
Contact Info:
- Website: SobanLosAngeles.com
- Instagram: Sobanlosangeles
